Europe Surf Series Part 1 (of 3)
Europe Surf Series Part 1 (of 3)
By Sam Bleakley
Manuel Toral www.semeyadetoral |
Where the often stormy Atlantic
meets Europe’s rugged and rain-stained coastline, surfers can enjoy an
outstanding variety of cool water waves from pulverising reefs and long hollow
points to gentle beach breaks. The surf is rarely flat and averages
1-3ft/0.3-1m in summer with 15-20°C/59-68°F sea
temperatures, and 4-10ft/1.2-3m during the mild autumn, winter and spring
in 5-10°C/41-50°F waters. During chilly
winters waves like Mundaka in North Spain excel, but quick changing conditions
make weather forecasting an essential part of the European sufer’s knowledge.
Wetsuited warriors edge deeper every year into inhospitable but sometimes epic
surf frontiers like northern Scotland, Norway and Iceland.
Generalisations are almost
impossible in Europe, its mixed politics and economy as diverse as its
landscape, from forested coastlines to flat farmland and urban river plains.
While snow falls in the Alpine peaks, the arid south can have months of
scorching sun and the lush north months of yeasty rain. Europe is a melting pot
of different languages and traditions, where efforts to speak the local lingo
are always appreciated as English is not the common tongue. Politically stable
with no threatening sea life, surfing here is safe and popular. Even the once
widespread pollution problem is being rapidly eliminated by environmental
groups like the UK’s Surfers Against
Sewage and Europe’s Blue Flag
scheme to recognise clean seas. The downside is relatively high cost, making
camping the only cheap travel option. However, road and train networks are
superb.
European waters should be much
colder considering their 40-60° northerly
latitude. Thankfully the Gulf Stream helps coastal Europe to escape extremes of
weather with a constant flow of mild mid Atlantic water. Low-pressure systems
follow its course, sending swell as they deepen, tracking northeast. Between
October and May in autumn, winter and spring, these strong wet, windy weather
systems hit the UK and Ireland. In the process they send big, often clean surf
to points, reefs and beaches in France, Spain, Portugal, Madeira, the Canary
Islands and the Azores. Ideally the low pressures spin in the North Atlantic
while a high pressure over mainland Europe creates clear weather and offshore winds.
This pattern is more common between June and August in summertime when surf is
smaller because the lows are less frequent, travel further north and dissipate
earlier.
Ancelle Hansen César www.cesarancellehansen.com |
European summer can be a balmy
20-30°C/68-86°F, with boardshort sessions in
20° C/68°F water
at the world famous stretch of powerful beach breaks in Hossegor, France.
September to November is the prime time for all European surfing with frequent
long fetch groundswells from the southwest and fairly warm weather and water.
The autumn gold rush is also when Europe hosts world tour contests and most
surfers travel the coast, regularly enjoying perfect conditions. The tidal
range is large, averaging 3-6ft/1-2m. A tide chart is essential as breaks work
best at certain tides. The non-tidal Mediterranean is the exception.
Surprisingly ‘the Med’ can enjoy short-lived wind swells from a variety of
different directions, usually the northwest Mistral wind, sending waves to
parts of southern France and western Italy.
The North Sea is another European
surf zone where deep depressions entering from the North Atlantic can send
swell to the east coast UK, Norway, Germany and the Netherlands. England’s
connection with surfing goes right back to Yorkshireman James Cook who
captained the first group of Europeans to witness surfing in Hawaii in 1778.
Cook grew up in a place where some of the hollowest left-handers in the UK
break, at Staithes reef. Here Cook felt the lure of the sea before he embarked
on his Pacific voyages. Two centuries later, in the 1950s and 1960s, travelling
South African, Australian and Californian surfers brought the sport to
Biarritz, France, Jersey and Cornwall in the UK. Today hundreds of thousands of
surfers live throughout Europe and are a welcome addition to a cosmopolitan,
sophisticated and always evolving culture and economy.
Figuerãs Valentin www.v-figueras.com |